Louvers for Bonnet
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- Joined: Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:00 am
A good source of supply for louvres are chandlers (or boat shops to you & me). There are a number in Dubai that sell the stainless steel types in many different shapes and sizes. Fibre glass and plastic types are also available.
Knowing what areas of your front end are subject to high pressure heat build up is the secret to using louvres. Simply screwing a pair down onto the hood won't nessesarily solve all of your heat retension issues.
You need to create proper air flow through the engine bay...hot air is created mainly via the radiator and is forced towards the rear firewall via the radiator fan/s.
Rising heat should be allowed to escape at the highest presure point ...not nessesarily the highest point on the hood.
On LandRover Defenders we've found that the highest presure point is actually down the sides of the wimgs and not on top of the bonnet. Nissan Patrols best location is on top of the bonnet closest back towards the windsheild with a smaller set mounted on the bonnet just behind the line of the radiator with the louvre facing forward to increase airflow into the bay. It's all about the airodynamics that are happening under the bonnet and not on the outside as many people think.
Louvres are sometimes applied because the owner rekons his truck will look the part, but for someone who knows better...they can look rediculas.
Knowing what areas of your front end are subject to high pressure heat build up is the secret to using louvres. Simply screwing a pair down onto the hood won't nessesarily solve all of your heat retension issues.
You need to create proper air flow through the engine bay...hot air is created mainly via the radiator and is forced towards the rear firewall via the radiator fan/s.
Rising heat should be allowed to escape at the highest presure point ...not nessesarily the highest point on the hood.
On LandRover Defenders we've found that the highest presure point is actually down the sides of the wimgs and not on top of the bonnet. Nissan Patrols best location is on top of the bonnet closest back towards the windsheild with a smaller set mounted on the bonnet just behind the line of the radiator with the louvre facing forward to increase airflow into the bay. It's all about the airodynamics that are happening under the bonnet and not on the outside as many people think.
Louvres are sometimes applied because the owner rekons his truck will look the part, but for someone who knows better...they can look rediculas.
- Bulldozer
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Will done Dee See good work man, logic technical stuff we need to find out the Pressure/Ventilation area for the Cherokee & for the Wranglers which will lead us for the proper location to install the louvreDee See wrote:A good source of supply for louvres are chandlers (or boat shops to you & me). There are a number in Dubai that sell the stainless steel types in many different shapes and sizes. Fibre glass and plastic types are also available.
Knowing what areas of your front end are subject to high pressure heat build up is the secret to using louvres. Simply screwing a pair down onto the hood won't necessarily solve all of your heat retention issues.
You need to create proper air flow through the engine bay...hot air is created mainly via the radiator and is forced towards the rear firewall via the radiator fan/s.
Rising heat should be allowed to escape at the highest pressure point ...not necessarily the highest point on the hood.
On Land Rover Defenders we've found that the highest pressure point is actually down the sides of the wings and not on top of the bonnet. Nissan Patrols best location is on top of the bonnet closest back towards the windshield with a smaller set mounted on the bonnet just behind the line of the radiator with the louvre facing forward to increase airflow into the bay. It's all about the aerodynamics that are happening under the bonnet and not on the outside as many people think.
Louvres are sometimes applied because the owner reckons his truck will look the part, but for someone who knows better...they can look ridiculous.
Life is too Short, nothing to argue about, specially with closed minded
- Chuck
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Hi,
i am half way thru with my new Grills. Last friday i was in the desert with the hole in the hood and the engine was about 15 to 20 degree cooler than last time.
The cutted hole
The Grill fixed with masking tape, ready for welding
The look from the inside. You can see the 4 nuts welded to the Grill ? These nuts will be used for fixing a pan under, if needed.
The look after welding from the outside
Now i just have to polish at the welding spots a little and give the hood for painting.
i am half way thru with my new Grills. Last friday i was in the desert with the hole in the hood and the engine was about 15 to 20 degree cooler than last time.
The cutted hole
The Grill fixed with masking tape, ready for welding
The look from the inside. You can see the 4 nuts welded to the Grill ? These nuts will be used for fixing a pan under, if needed.
The look after welding from the outside
Now i just have to polish at the welding spots a little and give the hood for painting.
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- Chuck
- Advanced
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- Location: Abu Dhabi
For the Wranglerfreaks there are some nice hoods availabe
from AEV Conversions
http://www.oman4x4.com/aevhood.htm
Its good to have that hood, if you have a monster like that under it
from AEV Conversions
http://www.oman4x4.com/aevhood.htm
Its good to have that hood, if you have a monster like that under it
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- Joined: Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:00 am
I have a series I Discovery running a 4.6Efi V8. So far I havn't had the need to modify anything in the cooling system apart from keeping an eye on the coolant. (and even that never moves!).Jo wrote:Good Comment Dee See!
you mentioned Defendes, whatsabout Discos? Any experience or suggestions?
Jo
If you are having cooling issues with your Discovery then louvres arn't the answer to the cure....finding the cause of the overheating will be the number one objective. My truck has run 220,000km from one end of Saudi Arabia to the furthest tip of the UAE without a single cooling problem......if it ain't broke then don't fix it!
My Defender is a quite highly modified 4.6Efi putting out 300lbs of torqe at the flywheel and just under the same in HP. I bought the engine from the Uk and had it on a dyno before having it flown over here for fitting. I bought an aluminium radiator for it whilst doing the initial instalation because I knew that the headers were going to make the engine run hotter in the bay for a start. The Old Victory Racing Team had a few ali rads lying around and I picked it up for 1000Dhs as opposed to the normal price of 6000Dhs!
I copied the side vents from the Saluki because we knew that they worked wonders on higher performance engines. Tim Ansel is the co-driver of the Saluki and comes from an aviation background. He did alot of study with aerodynamism and hence we knew where to start of modifying the engine bay and surrounding panels.
I can see why the yellow Jeep in the picture needs so much venting through his hood..... he has a massive 8274 Warn blocking the grill!
Regards.
- DinoStroker
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I can't wait to see your hood (bonnet) when it's painted Uwe. Looks cool and it should reduce underhood temps. quite a bit.Chuck wrote:Hi,
i am half way thru with my new Grills. Last friday i was in the desert with the hole in the hood and the engine was about 15 to 20 degree cooler than last time.
The cutted hole
The Grill fixed with masking tape, ready for welding
The look from the inside. You can see the 4 nuts welded to the Grill ? These nuts will be used for fixing a pan under, if needed.
The look after welding from the outside
Now i just have to polish at the welding spots a little and give the hood for painting.
1992 Jeep Cherokee - 4.6L Stroker - 5MT
200rwhp 258rwtq (246hp 311lbft at crank)
Jeep Performance, Jeep Tech, Junker to Stroker
200rwhp 258rwtq (246hp 311lbft at crank)
Jeep Performance, Jeep Tech, Junker to Stroker
- DinoStroker
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