DinoStroker wrote:If you build up your existing 4.0L engine into a modified "poor man's" 4.6L stroker as featured in my site, the total cost of parts, machine shop work, and labour will come to about 9000 AED and that's the cheapest stroker build possible (now you know why I called it a "poor man's"). My own engine is the original poor man's version.
The only non-stock parts that are used in the build are the 258 crankshaft (there's an ebay seller in Turkey so that saves a lot in shipping cost), Keith Black ICON IC944 pistons, ARP 112-6001 connecting rod bolts, Accel 24lb/hr injectors, EV1 to EV6 injector harness adapters, and JET 180* thermostat (all available at Summit Racing). The other parts that you'd need to complete the rebuild can be bought locally (main/rod/cam bearings, oil pump, upper/lower gasket sets, crankshaft pulley, freeze plugs, and valve lifters).
The miminum amount of machine shop work required will be to bore/hone the cylinders, press in new cam bearings, grind away the flat balance pads on the 4.0L connecting rod small ends, press the new pistons onto the connecting rods, check the cylinder head for flatness (mill if necessary), and lap the valves/valve seats with grinding paste.
The whole job beginning with removing the old engine from the Jeep to having it rebuilt into a stroker and running again should take less than a week if all goes well. That said, you have to know the pitfalls and it's important that the garage mechanics are focussed so that you don't run into problems.
Thank You Dino!
The "modified" poor man's is exactly what I picked ... I got my 4 CW crank from Turkey together with Tobias' already
(since then standing "storage") ... my 2006 engine has only 60k kms on the clock (actually stroking is a bit decadent) so cam/lifters/rockers/springs/valves supposed to be in good shape. I have already a 62mm TB (from my Trail Jammer kit) ...
I could get KB944-20 over with brand new forged I beam rods balanced and pressed in for USD 730 from ebay. (505 seller)
I still need the crank spacer for the harmonic balancer ... long snout here.
The gaskets, and crank main and rod bearings (why cam bearings as well???) I can get here, right.
But why do I need a new oil pump?
Why do I need new freeze plugs? (extensive block cleaning even for the 60k kms?)
Why do I need a new crankshaft pulley? (The old one does not fit?)
Why do I need to touch the valves?
Why do I need new valve lifters? (existing stock cam! already broken in with exactly the lifters I have.)
Why EV1 to EV6 adapters? (505 has 24 lb/hr injectors with EV6 already for later engines ... and the crank spacer as well
)
and regarding the injectors : Accel injectors are rated for 49psi fuel pressure ... the 06'er TJ fuel pumps run on around 58, no?
(You suggested some Chevy LS1 injectors on jeepstroker ... I have not found them yet, neither at summit nor at jegs ... part #?)
I think the work is even limited to disassembly, boring the cylinders only and to assembly.
As a precaution I would make sure my T-stat housing is not restricted and I would for sure buy a new stock mopar(!) water pump.
I MIGHT port my cylinder head ... if it is not causing too much work and 7P manages to reassemble the right rockers,springs/valves into the right position (already broken in, remember?) (Same applies for the lifters and pushrods ... they have to go back into the same positions)
My only ONE BIG concern remains : My 42RLE auto tranny POS will have to handle around 250hp and 310lb.ft torque(!!!) and has to stay cool and the torque converter healthy
( I have ordered a Derale 13960 ... I hope it will be enough!)
Your comments/tips/hints are HIGHLY APPRECIATED
Thank You!
The waiter gives you a menu but you don't know what to choose. There are too many options and you are afraid that you will pick the wrong one. 
at that time ... so now I have 2" OME HD lift plus 1.25 BL to run 33".